Dynamics Of Coastal Systems (Second Edition)

Author: Dronkers Job

Publisher: World Scientific

ISBN: 9814725161

Category: Science

Page: 780

View: 2604

The book provides a comprehensive and up-to-date overview of the physical processes which, according to the present state of knowledge, determine the evolution of coastal systems and their response to human interventions. This response depends to a large degree on the self-organising properties of coastal dynamics, which form a leading theme throughout the book. The basic theoretical ideas are explained in text and figures and also in formulas for the more mathematically inclined reader. Theories are illustrated with examples from estuaries, coastal lagoons, beaches and tidal flat systems from all over the world. The rules and simple models can be used directly without relying on complex computations; much attention is given to the strengths and weaknesses of the underlying theories and their limits of applicability. The book is fully self-contained; some knowledge of basic physics and mathematics is recommended. The book is an upgrade of the first edition. Most parts are rewritten and chapters are added to incorporate research results, new insight and experience of the past ten years. This book is intended for everyone interested in coastal systems for professional or educational reasons.
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Dynamics of Coastal Systems (Second Edition)

Author: Job Dronkers

Publisher: Advanced Series on Ocean Engin

ISBN: 9789813143739

Category: Science

Page: 780

View: 9467

The book provides a comprehensive and up-to-date overview of the physical processes which, according to the present state of knowledge, determine the evolution of coastal systems and their response to human interventions. This response depends to a large degree on the self-organising properties of coastal dynamics, which form a leading theme throughout the book. The basic theoretical ideas are explained in text and figures and also in formulas for the more mathematically inclined reader. Theories are illustrated with examples from estuaries, coastal lagoons, beaches and tidal flat systems from all over the world. The rules and simple models can be used directly without relying on complex computations; much attention is given to the strengths and weaknesses of the underlying theories and their limits of applicability. The book is fully self-contained; some knowledge of basic physics and mathematics is recommended. The book is an upgrade of the first edition. Most parts are rewritten and chapters are added to incorporate research results, new insight and experience of the past ten years. This book is intended for everyone interested in coastal systems for professional or educational reasons.
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Introduction to Nearshore Hydrodynamics

Author: Ib A. Svendsen

Publisher: World Scientific

ISBN: 9812561420

Category: Technology & Engineering

Page: 722

View: 6261

This book is intended as an introductory textbook for graduate students and as a reference book for engineers and scientists working in the field of coastal engineering. As such it gives a description of the theories for wave and nearshore hydrodynamics. It is meant to de-mystify the topics and hence starts at a fairly basic level. It requires knowledge of fluid mechanics equivalent to a first year graduate level. At the end of each topic, an attempt is made to give an overview of the present stage of the scientific development in that area with numerous references for further studies.
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Computational Wave Dynamics

Author: Hitoshi Gotoh,Akio Okayasu,Yasunori Watanabe

Publisher: World Scientific Publishing Company

ISBN: 9814449725

Category: Technology & Engineering

Page: 252

View: 6328

This book provides a comprehensive description of the latest theory-supported numerical technologies, as well as scientific and engineering applications for water surface waves. Its contents are crafted to cater to a step-by-step learning of computational wave dynamics and ocean wave modeling. It provides a comprehensive description from underlying theories of free-surface flows, to practical computational applications for coastal and ocean engineering on the basis of computational fluid dynamics (CFD). The text may be used as a textbook for advanced undergraduate students and graduate students to understand the theoretical background of wave computations, and the recent progress of computational techniques for free-surface and interfacial flows, such as Volume of Fluid (VOF), Constrained Interpolation Profile (CIP), Lagrangian Particle (SPH, MPS), Distinct Element (DEM) and Euler-Lagrange Hybrid Methods. It is also suitable for researchers and engineers who wish to apply CFD techniques to ocean modeling and practical coastal problems involving sediment transport, wave-structure interaction and surf zone flows.
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Water Wave Mechanics for Engineers and Scientists

Author: Robert G Dean,Robert A Dalrymple

Publisher: World Scientific Publishing Company

ISBN: 9814365696

Category: Technology & Engineering

Page: 368

View: 4810

This book is intended as an introduction to classical water wave theory for the college senior or first year graduate student. The material is self-contained; almost all mathematical and engineering concepts are presented or derived in the text, thus making the book accessible to practicing engineers as well. The book commences with a review of fluid mechanics and basic vector concepts. The formulation and solution of the governing boundary value problem for small amplitude waves are developed and the kinematic and pressure fields for short and long waves are explored. The transformation of waves due to variations in depth and their interactions with structures are derived. Wavemaker theories and the statistics of ocean waves are reviewed. The application of the water particle motions and pressure fields are applied to the calculation of wave forces on small and large objects. Extension of the linear theory results to several nonlinear wave properties is presented. Each chapter concludes with a set of homework problems exercising and sometimes extending the material presented in the chapter. An appendix provides a description of nine experiments which can be performed, with little additional equipment, in most wave tank facilities.
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Dynamics of Coastal Systems

Author: Job Dronkers

Publisher: World Scientific

ISBN: 9814480746

Category: Technology & Engineering

Page: 540

View: 2399

Dynamics of Coastal Systems is about the dynamic interaction between water motion and seabed topography, which affects the natural response of coastal systems to change in external conditions and to human interventions — from the scale of seabed ripples up to the scale of entire barrier and delta systems. The book highlights major concepts developed during the past 50 years for the description of current-topography, tide-topography and wave-topography interactions. It provides simple analytical tools and models for diagnosing and predicting coastal response to change, with references to a great variety of coastal systems around the world. These concepts and tools are crucial for sustainable management of beaches, deltas and coastal wetlands. The book is based on a master course on coastal morphodynamics given at the Universities of Utrecht and Delft in The Netherlands for graduate students who are familiar with the basic concepts of coastal hydrodynamics. It enables coastal engineers to complete their background knowledge and to facilitate access to cutting-edge scientific literature on specific topics. The book may also serve to familiarise consultants, practitioners and academics in related coastal disciplines with modern concepts of land-sea interaction. Contents:Morphodynamic FeedbackCurrent-Topography InteractionTide-Topography InteractionWave-Topography Interaction Readership: Graduate students, engineers, researchers, academics, lecturers, practitioners, consultants and professionals. Keywords:Coastal Morphodynamics;Coastal Geomorphology;Coastal Hydraulics;Self-Organisation;Stability Analysis;Tides Waves;Estuary;Barrier Coast;River DeltaKey Features:Simple and practical tools for analysing and predicting coastal changesIntroduction to modern concepts of coastal morphodynamics for non-specialistsUnifying presentation of morphodynamics for a great variety of coastal systems
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Coastal and Estuarine Processes

Author: Peter Nielsen

Publisher: World Scientific Publishing Company

ISBN: 981310113X

Category: Science

Page: 360

View: 9252

This book covers water waves, surf zone hydrodynamics, tides in oceans and estuaries, storm surges, estuarine mixing, basic sediment transport, coastal morphodynamics and coastal groundwater dynamics. It is an introductory treatment, suitable for a first course in coastal and estuarine processes for earth scientists or engineers. Yet, there are substantial amounts of new material that are included, such as the explicit, analytical treatment of transient, forced long waves. Inclusion of this material will in turn strongly enhance the introductory treatment of tsunami, storm surges and surf beat. The treatment of sine wave theory emphasizes expressions which are explicit in the water depth h (using koh instead of kh) so that they can easily be differentiated or integrated with respect to h. This is a major pedagogical advantage because of the enhanced transparency. The treatment of turbulent mixing includes finite mixing length effects which provide an explanation for differential diffusion of different sediment sizes in suspension. The effects of acceleration skewness and boundary layer streaming are also included in the basic sediment transport models. The inclusion of beach groundwater dynamics — including the mechanisms by which waves as well as tides drive groundwater motion — provides a link between the previously unconnected fields of coastal hydraulics and regional groundwater modeling. Serving as a good reference book, it is fully indexed and comprehensively cross referenced. Abundant references to more detailed texts are also provided.
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Hydrodynamics Around Cylindrical Structures

Author: B Mutlu Sumer,Jørgen Fredsøe

Publisher: World Scientific

ISBN: 981449805X

Category:

Page: 548

View: 2960

This book discusses the subject of wave/current flow around a cylinder, the forces induced on the cylinder by the flow, and the vibration pattern of slender structures in a marine environment. The primary aim of the book is to describe the flow pattern and the resulting load which develops when waves or current meet a cylinder. Attention is paid to the special case of a circular cylinder. The development in the forces is related to the various flow patterns and is discussed in detail. Regular as well as irregular waves are considered, and special cases like wall proximities (pipelines) are also investigated. The book is intended for MSc students with some experience in basic fluid mechanics and for PhD students. Contents:Flow Around a Cylinder in Steady CurrentForces on a Cylinder in Steady CurrentFlow Around a Cylinder in Oscillatory FlowsForces on a Cylinder in Regular WavesMathematical and Numerical Treatment of Flow Around a CylinderDiffraction Effect. Forces on Large BodiesForces on a Cylinder in Irregular WavesFlow-Induced Vibrations of a Free Cylinder in Steady CurrentsFlow-Induced Vibrations of a Free Cylinder in WavesVibrations of Marine PipelinesMathematical Modelling of Flow-Induced Vibrations. Readership: Civil and ocean engineers. keywords:Pipelines;Offshore Structures;Hydroelastic Vibrations;Flow-induced Vibrations;Forces on Offshore Structures;Flow Around Offshore Structures;Wave Loading;Vibrations;Waves;Steady Currents;Pipeline Stability;Diffraction;Irregular Waves;Oscillatory Flow;Mathematical Modelling;Coastal Structures;Marine Structure;Flow Loading;Vibration of Marine Pipelines “The figures are very good. Many of them are photographs and sketches of aspects of flow that are sometimes difficult to explain in words. The references are extensive, quoting many recent papers. The treatment of the subjects is up-to-date and particularly the chapters on numerical simulation and vibrations contain excellent synopses of new research, much of it by the authors themselves. The style is lucid and the text is well-organized. This book can be highly recommended to anyone who deals with cylindrical structures.” Professor J W Kamphuis Coastal Engineering
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Numerical Modeling of Ocean Dynamics

Author: Zygmunt Kowalik,T S Murty

Publisher: World Scientific

ISBN: 9814365661

Category: Technology & Engineering

Page: 496

View: 8697

While there are several excellent books dealing with numerical analysis and analytical theory, one has to practically sift through hundreds of references. This monograph is an attempt to partly rectify this situation. It aims to introduce the application of finite-difference methods to ocean dynamics as well as review other complex methods. Systematically presented, the monograph first gives a detailed account of the basics and then go on to discuss the various applications. Recognising the impossibility of covering the entire field of ocean dynamics, the writers have chosen to focus on transport equations (diffusion and advection), shallow water phenomena — tides, storm surges and tsunamis, three-dimensional time dependent oceanic motion, natural oscillations, and steady state phenomena. The many aspects covered by this book makes it an indispensable handbook and reference source to both professionals and students of this field. Contents:Formulation of the General Equations:Equations of Motion, Continuity and DiffusionTwo-Dimensional EquationsApplication of the Stream FunctionViscosity in the Turbulent FlowTransport Equations:Mathematical RudimentsBoundary and Initial ConditionsBasic Numerical PropertiesExplicit Versus Implicit Numerical SchemesCentered Numerical SchemesComputational Errors: Diffusion and DispersionComputational and Physical Modes of the Numerical SolutionDiffusive ProcessesApplication of the Higher Order Computational Schemes to the Advective EquationTwo-Dimensional Numerical Models:Basic ProblemsNumerical Solution of the System of EquationsStep by Step Approach to the Construction and Analysis of Simple Numerical SchemesTwo-Dimensional ModelsNumerical FilteringGrid RefinementSimulation of Long Wave Run-UpFinite-Differencing of the Time DerivativeFinite-Differencing of the Space DerivativeTreatment of Open BoundariesTreatment of the Nonlinear Advective TermsMoving Boundary Models and Inclusion of Tidal FlatsNested Grids and Multiple GridsStretched Coordinates and Transformed Grid SystemsThree-Dimensional Time-Dependent Motion:IntroductionNumerical Modeling of the Fjord CirculationThree-Dimensional Motion in the Shallow SeasThree Dimensional Modeling Utilizing the Mode Splitting and Sigma CoordinateGeneral Circulation Model — Rigid Lid ConditionA Three-Dimensional Semi-Implicit ModelA Two-Layer ModelMode Splitting and Reduced Gravity ModelQuasi-Geostrophic ModelsStreamfunction ModelsThe Bidston ModelsHaidvogel et al.'s ModelNormal Modes:IntroductionSeichesThe Normal Mode ApproachSolutions for Lakes and Bays with Uniform and Variable DepthSystems with BranchesResonance Calculation for Irregular-Shaped BasinsSecondary UndulationsHelmholtz ModeOpen Boundary ConditionsNumerical Models for Resonance CalculationsKelvin Waves, Sverdrup Waves and Poincaré WavesInfluence of Ice Cover on Normal ModesSteady State Processes:Oceanographic ExamplesNumerical ApproximationBoundary ConditionsNumerical MethodsDirect MethodsHigher Order Accuracy Schemes for Convection-Dominated FlowAppendix 1ReferencesSubject Index Readership: Oceanographers, coastal engineers and environment scientists. keywords:
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An Introduction to Hydraulics of Fine Sediment Transport

Author: Ashish J Mehta

Publisher: World Scientific Publishing Company

ISBN: 9814449504

Category: Technology & Engineering

Page: 1060

View: 7898

This book presents observations on the phenomena of fine sediment transport and their explanations under process-related divisions such as flocculation, erosion, and deposition. The text is a compilation of the author's lecture notes from nearly four decades of teaching and guiding graduate students in civil and coastal engineering. Illustrations of fine sediment transport processes and their complexities given in the book are taken from field and laboratory-based observations by the author and his students, as well as numerous investigators. The wide-ranging composition of particles (of inorganic and organic matter), their universal presence and their complex interactions with hydraulic forces make this branch of science a difficult one to deal with in a single treatise. It is therefore essential to study fine sediment transport as an independent subject rather than cover it in no more than a single chapter as many texts on coarse sediment transport have done. Even though the entire coverage is “introductory”, the twelve chapters collectively include more material than what can be reasonably dealt with in a one semester, three-credit course. The book includes an extensive description of the components of fine-grained — especially cohesive — sediment transport. It covers the development of the subject in scientific and engineering applications mainly from the 1950s to its present state. Solved examples and chapter-end exercises are also included. This text is aimed at senior civil engineering undergraduates and graduate students who, in the normal course of their study, seldom come across the subject of fine sediment transport in their curricula. Interested students should have a basic understanding of the mechanics of fluid flow and open channel hydraulics.
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Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves: Nonlinear aspects

Author: Chiang C. Mei,Michael Stiassnie,Dick K.-P. Yue

Publisher: World Scientific

ISBN: 9812561587

Category: Coastal engineering

Page: 1071

View: 518

This book is an expanded version of The Applied Dynamics of Ocean Surface Waves. It presents theoretical topics on ocean wave dynamics, including basic principles and applications in coastal and offshore engineering as well as coastal oceanography. Advanced analytical and numerical techniques are applied, such as singular perturbations. In this expanded edition, two chapters on recent developments have been added: one is on multiple scattering by periodic or random bathymetry, and the other is on Zakharov's theory of broad spectrum wave fields. New sections include topics on infragravity waves, upstream solitons, Venice storm gates, etc. In addition, there are many new exercises. Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves will be invaluable for graduate students and researchers in coastal and ocean engineering, geophysical fluid dynamicists interested in water waves, and theoretical scientists and applied mathematicians wishing to develop new techniques for challenging problems or to apply techniques existing elsewhere.
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The Dynamics of Coastal Models

Author: Clifford J. Hearn

Publisher: Cambridge University Press

ISBN: 0521807409

Category: Computers

Page: 488

View: 8457

Textbook for graduate students and an introduction for researchers to coastal basins through simple hydrodynamics.
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Satellite Sar Detection Of Sub-mesoscale Ocean Dynamic Processes

Author: Zheng Quanan

Publisher: World Scientific

ISBN: 9814749028

Category: Science

Page: 348

View: 1133

Synthetic-aperture radar (SAR) as a form of radar to create images of objects, uses the motion of the radar antenna over a targeted region to provide finer spatial resolution than is possible with conventional beam-scanning radars by mounting the antenna on a moving platform such as an aircraft or spacecraft. As antenna aperture (the "size" of the antenna) is defined by the distance the SAR device travels over a target in the time taken for the radar pulses to return to the antenna, the larger the aperture is, the higher the image resolution, therefore, this enables SAR to create high resolution images with comparatively small physical antennas. This special book aims to provide the updated theories and methods for the use of synthetic aperture radar (SAR) onboard satellites to detect ocean processes, i.e., SAR ocean remote sensing. It is a hi-tech application field having been developed since late 1970s and become a powerful tool for obtaining dynamic signatures from the remote and broad ocean.
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Basic Coastal Engineering

Author: Robert M. Sorensen

Publisher: Springer Science & Business Media

ISBN: 0387233326

Category: Technology & Engineering

Page: 324

View: 6830

The second edition (1997) of this text was a completely rewritten version of the original text Basic Coastal Engineering published in 1978. This third edition makes several corrections, improvements and additions to the second edition. Basic Coastal Engineering is an introductory text on wave mechanics and coastal processes along with fundamentals that underline the practice of coastal engineering. This book was written for a senior or first postgraduate course in coastal engineering. It is also suitable for self study by anyone having a basic engineering or physical science background. The level of coverage does not require a math or fluid mechanics background beyond that presented in a typical undergraduate civil or mechanical engineering curriculum. The material p- sented in this text is based on the author’s lecture notes from a one-semester course at Virginia Polytechnic Institute, Texas A&M University, and George Washington University, and a senior elective course at Lehigh University. The text contains examples to demonstrate the various analysis techniques that are presented and each chapter (except the first and last) has a collection of problems for the reader to solve that further demonstrate and expand upon the text material. Chapter 1 briefly describes the coastal environment and introduces the re- tively new field of coastal engineering. Chapter 2 describes the two-dimensional characteristics of surface waves and presents the small-amplitude wave theory to support this description.
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Handbook of Coastal and Ocean Engineering

Author: Young C. Kim

Publisher: World Scientific

ISBN: 9812819304

Category: Science

Page: 1163

View: 3505

This handbook contains a comprehensive compilation of topics that are at the forefront of many of the technical advances in ocean waves, coastal, and ocean engineering. More than 70 internationally recognized authorities in the field of coastal and ocean engineering have contributed articles on their areas of expertise to this handbook. These international luminaries are from highly respected universities and renowned research and consulting organizations from all over the world. This handbook provides a comprehensive overview of shallow-water waves, water level fluctuations, coastal and offshore structures, port and harbors, coastal sediment processes, environmental problems, coastal hazards, physical modeling, and other issues in coastal and ocean engineering. It is an essential reference for professionals and researchers in the areas of coastal engineering, ocean engineering, oceanography, and meteorology, as well as an invaluable text for graduate students in these fields. Sample Chapter(s). Chapter 1: Wave Setup (2,255 KB). Chapter 2: Wavemaker Theories (607 KB). Contents: Shallow-Water Waves: Wave Setup (Robert G Dean and Todd L Walton ); Wavemaker Theories ( Robert T Hudspeth and Ronald B Guenther ); Analyses by the Melnikov Method of Damped Parametrically Excited Cross Waves (Ronald B Guenther and Robert T Hudspeth); Random Wave Breaking and Nonlinearity Evolution Across the Surf Zone (Yoshimi Goda); Aeration and Bubbles in the Surf Zone (Nobuhito Mori, Shohachi Kakuno and Daniel T Cox); Freak Wave (Nobuhito Mori); Short-Term Wave Statistics (Akira Kimura); Water-Level Fluctuations: Generation and Prediction of Seiches in Rotterdam Harbor Basins (Martijn P C de Jong and Jurjen A Battjes); Seiches and Harbor Oscillations (Alexander B Rabinovich); Finite Difference Model for Practical Simulation of Distant Tsunamis (Sung Bum Yoon); Coastal Structures: Tsunami-Induced Forces on Structures ( Ioan Nistor, Dan Palermo, Younes Nouri, Tad S Murty and Murat Saatcioglu); Nonconventional Wave Damping Structures (Hocine Oumeraci); Wave Interaction with Breakwaters Including Perforated Walls (Kyung-Duck Suh); Prediction of Overtopping (Jentsje van der Meer, Tim Pullen, William Allsop, Tom Bruce, Holger Schttrumpf and Andreas Kortenhaus); Wave Run-Up and Wave Overtopping at Armored Rubble Slopes and Mounds (Holger Schttrumpf, Jentsje van der Meer, Andreas Kortenhaus, Tom Bruce and Leopoldo Franco ); Wave Overtopping at Vertical and Steep Structures (Tom Bruce, Jentsje van der Meer, Tim Pullen and W Allsop); Surf Parameters for the Design of Coastal Structures (Dong Hoon Yoo); Development of Caisson Breakwater Design Based on Failure Experiences (Shigeo Takahashi); Design of Alternative Revetments ( Krystian W Pilarczyk ); Remarks on Coastal Stabilization and Alternative Solutions (Krystian Pilarczyk); Geotextile Sand Containers for Shore Protection (Hocine Oumeraci and Juan Recio); Low Crested Breakwaters (Alberto Lamberti and Barbara Zanuttigh ); Hydrodynamic Behavior of Net Cages in the Open Sea ( Yu-Cheng Li ); Offshore Structures: State of Offshore Structure Development and Design Challenges (Subrata Chakrabarti); Ports and Harbors: Computer Modeling for Harbor Planning and Design (Jiin-Jen Lee and Xiuying Xing); Prediction of Squat for Underkeel Clearance ( Michael J Briggs, Marc Vantorre, Klemens Uliczka and Pierre Debaillon); Coastal Sediment Processes: Wave-Induced Resuspension of Fine Sediment (Mamta Jain and Ashish J Mehta); Suspended Sand and Bedload Transport on Beaches (Nobuhisa Kobayashi, Andres Payo and Bradley D Johnson); Headland-Bay Beaches for Recreation and Shore Protection (John Rong-Chung Hsu, Melissa Meng-Jiuan Yu, Fang-Chun Lee and Richard Silvester); Beach Nourishment (Robert G Dean and Julie D Rosati); Engineering of Tidal Inlets and Morphologic Consequences (Nicholas C Kraus); Environmental Problems: Water and Nutrients Flow in the Enclosed Bays (Yukio Koibuchi & Masahiko Isobe ); Sustainable Coastal Development: Socioeconomic and Environmental Risk in Coastal and Ocean Engineering ( Miguel A Losada Rodr guez, Asuncion Baquerizo, Miquel Ortega-Sinchez, Juan M Santiago and Elena Sinchez-Badorrey); Utilization of the Coastal Area ( Hwung-Hweng Hwung ); Coastal Hazards: Ocean Wave Climates: Trends and Variations Due to Earth''s Changing Climate (Paul D Komar, Jonathan C Allan and Peter Ruggiero); Sea Level Rise: Major Implications to Coastal Engineering and Coastal Management (Lesley Ewing); Sea Level Rise and Coastal Erosion (Marcel J F Stive, Roshanka Ranasinghe and Peter J Cowell); Coastal Flooding: Analysis and Assessment of Risk (Panayotis Prinos and Panagiota Galiatsatou); Physical Modeling: Physical Modeling of Tsunami Waves (Michael J Briggs, Harry Yeh and Daniel T Cox); Laboratory Simulation of Waves (Etienne P D Mansard and Michael D Miles); Coastal Engineering Practice and Education: Perspective on Coastal Engineering Practice and Education ( J William Kamphuis ). Readership: Graduate students, researchers and professionals in coastal and ocean engineering, oceanography and meteorology."
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Hydrodynamics of Coastal Zones

Author: S.R. Massel

Publisher: Elsevier

ISBN: 9780080870861

Category: Technology & Engineering

Page: 335

View: 5368

This book discusses selected theoretical topics of coastal hydrodynamics, including basic principles and applications in coastal oceanography and coastal engineering. It is not intended as a handbook; the emphasis is placed on presentation of a number of basic problems, rather than giving detailed instructions for their application. The bulk of the material deals with surface waves. In the author's opinion there is still a strong need for a book on wave phenomena in the coastal waters, as general textbooks on sea surface dynamics focus most of their attention on the deep ocean. This book intends to fill this need by concentrating on the phenomena typical of the coastal zone. Based on lectures given at the Institute of Hydroengineering, Polish Academy of Sciences in Gdansk, the approach throughout is a combination of the theoretical and observational. A basic knowledge of ordinary and partial differential equations, as well as the statistical and spectral analysis of time series, is assumed. The reader should also be familiar with fundamental hydrodynamic concepts. The book comprises nine chapters. Governing equations and conservation laws are treated in Chapter 1, using the variational principles. The theory of regular surface waves is covered in Chapters 2 to 4. The nonlinear effect of wave train modulation and their breaking of beaches is examined in Chapter 5. Chapters 6 and 7 focus on the statistical and spectral treatment of waves induced by wind. Current generation and circulation pattern are the subject of Chapter 8, while sea level variations are examined in Chapter 9. References for further reading are given at the end of each chapter.
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Modelling Morphological Response of Large Tidal Inlet Systems to Sea Level Rise

UNESCO-IHE PhD Thesis

Author: Pushpa Kumara Dissanayake

Publisher: CRC Press

ISBN: 1466552808

Category: Technology & Engineering

Page: 200

View: 5229

The research presented in this work qualitatively investigates the morphodynamic response of a large tidal inlet/basin system to future relative sea level rise (RSLR) using the state-of-the-art Delft3D numerical model. Understanding the potential impacts of RSLR on these systems is a prerequisite for their sustainable management due to their rich bio-diversity and the increase in economic activities and local communities in recent decades. The adopted approach used a highly schematised model domain analogous to the Ameland inlet in the Dutch Wadden Sea. Model simulations were undertaken applying tidal and wave boundary forcings with three IPCC projected RSLR scenarios (no RSLR, low RSLR and high RSLR). Predicted inlet evolution indicated a channel/shoal pattern typically observed at the Ameland inlet. RSLR enhances the existing flood-dominance of the system leading to erosion on the ebb-tidal delta and accretion in the basin. Under the no RSLR case, resulting bed evolution of the process-based model (Delft3D) tends to agree with empirical-equilibrium relations of the ASMITA model. Application of the low RSLR scenario resulted in quite stable tidal flat evolution. Model simulations with the high RSLR scenario indicated disappearing the tidal flats over time and turning the system into a lagoon. Applying nourishment hardly compensated the RSLR induced sediment demand of tidal flat evolution.
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Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters

Author: Leo H. Holthuijsen

Publisher: Cambridge University Press

ISBN: 1139462520

Category: Science

Page: N.A

View: 2849

Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands, channels, tidal flats and inlets, estuaries, fjords and lagoons. Most of this richly illustrated book is devoted to the physical aspects of waves. After introducing observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, the book defines the parameters that characterise waves. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the author discusses the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters, first in terms of generalised observations, and then in terms of the more theoretical framework of the spectral energy balance. He gives the results of established theories and also the direction in which research is developing. The book ends with a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters.
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Coastal and Shelf Sediment Transport

Author: Peter S. Balson,M. B. Collins

Publisher: Geological Society of London

ISBN: 9781862392175

Category: Science

Page: 162

View: 4516

This volume provides a timely review of a representative selection of the different approaches undertaken for coastal and shelf investigations, operating at a variety of temporal and spatial scales, within different regions of the UK/European continental shelf, and elsewhere.
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Ocean Surface Waves

Their Physics and Prediction

Author: Stanislaw R. Massel

Publisher: World Scientific

ISBN: 9789810221096

Category: Science

Page: 491

View: 930

This book is intended as a handbook for professionals and researchers in the areas of Physical Oceanography, Ocean and Coastal Engineering and as a text for graduate students in these fields. It presents a comprehensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, including basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of various wave parameters and applications in ocean and coastal engineering, all from the probabilistic and spectral points of view. The book commences with a description of mechanisms of surface wave generation by wind and its modern modeling techniques. The stochastic and probabilistic terminology is introduced and the basic statistical and spectral properties of ocean waves are developed and discussed in detail. The bulk of material deals with the prediction techniques for waves in deep and coastal waters for simple and complex ocean basins and complex bathymetry. The various prediction methods, currently used in oceanography and ocean engineering, are described and the examples of practical calculations illustrate the basic text. An appendix provides a description of the modern methods of wave measurement, including the remote sensing techniques. Also the wave simulation methods and random data analysis techniques are discussed. In the book a lot of discoveries of the Russian and East European scientists, largely unknown in the Western literature due to the language barrier, are referred to.
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