British Fashion Design

Rag Trade or Image Industry?

Author: Angela McRobbie

Publisher: Routledge

ISBN: 1134932448

Category: Art

Page: 224

View: 1023

British Fashion Design explores the tensions between fashion as art form, and the demands of a ruthlessly commercial industry. Based on interviews and research conducted over a number of years, Angela McRobbie charts the flow of art school fashion graduates into the industry; their attempts to reconcile training with practice, and their precarious position between the twin supports of the education system and the commercial sector. Stressing the social context of cultural production, McRobbie focuses on British fashion and its graduate designers as products of youth street culture, and analyses how designers from diverse backgrounds have created a labour market for themselves, remodelling `enterprise culture` to suit their own careers.
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Feminism and Youth Culture

From ‘Jackie’ to ‘Just Seventeen’

Author: N.A

Publisher: Macmillan International Higher Education

ISBN: 1349211680

Category:

Page: 278

View: 8341

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Be Creative

Making a Living in the New Culture Industries

Author: Angela McRobbie

Publisher: John Wiley & Sons

ISBN: 0745656633

Category: Social Science

Page: 224

View: 8653

In this exciting new book Angela McRobbie charts the ‘euphoric’ moment of the new creative economy, as it rose to prominence in the UK during the Blair years, and considers it from the perspective of contemporary experience of economic austerity and uncertainty about work and employment. McRobbie makes some bold arguments about the staging of creative economy as a mode of ‘labour reform’; she proposes that the dispositif of creativity is a fine-tuned instrument for acclimatising the expanded, youthful urban middle classes to a future of work without the raft of entitlements and security which previous generations had struggled to win through the post-war period of social democratic government. Adopting a cultural studies perspective, McRobbie re-considers resistance as ‘line of flight’ and shows what is at stake in the new politics of culture and creativity. She incisively analyses ‘project working’ as the embodiment of the future of work and poses the question as to how people who come together on this basis can envisage developing stronger and more protective organisations and associations. Scattered throughout the book are excerpts from interviews with artists, stylists, fashion designers, policy-makers, and social entrepreneurs.
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The Handbook of Fashion Studies

Author: Sandy Black,Amy de la Haye,Joanne Entwistle,Regina Root,Agnà ̈s Rocamora,Helen Thomas

Publisher: A&C Black

ISBN: 1472577434

Category: Design

Page: 656

View: 2908

The Handbook of Fashion Studies identifies an innovative spectrum of thematic approaches, key strands and interdisciplinary concepts that continue to push forward the boundaries of fashion studies. The book is divided into seven sections: Fashion, Identity and Difference; Spaces of Fashion; Fashion and Materiality; Fashion, Agency and Policy; Science, Technology and New fashion; Fashion and Time and, Sustainable Fashion in a Globalised world. Each section consists of approximately four essays authored by established researchers in the field from the UK, USA, Netherlands, Sweden, Canada and Australia. The essays are written by international subject specialists who each engage with their section's theme in the light of their own discipline and provide clear case-studies to further knowledge on fashion. This consistency provides clarity and permits comparative analysis. The handbook will be essential reading for students of fashion as well as professionals in the industry.
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London

After a Fashion

Author: Alistair O'Neill

Publisher: Reaktion Books

ISBN: 9781861893154

Category: History

Page: 240

View: 5503

A look at style and urbanism, offering a reconsideration of the role of fashion in city life and filling in overlooked gaps in the history of London and modern design.
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Gender and Popular Culture

Author: Katie Milestone,Anneke Meyer

Publisher: John Wiley & Sons

ISBN: 0745658652

Category: Social Science

Page: 200

View: 9099

This book examines the role of popular culture in the construction of gendered identities in contemporary society. It draws on a wide range of popular cultural forms - including popular music, newspapers and television - to illustrate how femininity and masculinity are produced, represented and consumed. The authors blend primary and secondary research to offer the reader a balanced yet novel overview of the area. Students are introduced to key theories and concepts in the fields of gender studies and popular culture, which are made accessible and interesting through their application to topical examples such as DJs, binge drinking and computer games. The book is structured into three clear, user-friendly sections: 1. Production, gender and popular culture: An investigation of who produces popular culture, why gendered patterns occur, and how they impact on content. 2. Representation, gender and popular culture: An examination of how men and women are represented in contemporary popular culture, and how notions of (in)appropriate femininity and masculinity are constructed. 3. Consumption, gender and popular culture: An exploration of who consumes what in popular culture, how gendered consumption relates to space, and what the effects of consuming representations of gender are. Gender and Popular Culture will be essential reading for students and scholars of media and cultural studies at all levels.
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The History and Philosophy of Art Education

Author: Stuart Macdonald

Publisher: James Clarke & Co.

ISBN: 9780718891534

Category: Art

Page: 400

View: 311

Dr. Macdonald investigates the continuous developments of art and design education in Italy, France, Britain, Germany, and the United States. The study traces the philosophies of teachers from the age of the guilds and the academies to today, and sets them in the context of the general education theories of their times. Stuart Macdonald clarifies the whole field of art education for research and teaching purposes. He points out that the knowledge of the principles and methods of art education is essential for a true understanding of the art of different periods. He makes clear that art education should be studied within the existing education disciplines of history, philosophy, psychology, and sociology of education. Essentially factual, using many quotations from primary sources not generally available, this book gives a disciplined grounding in a branch of the history of education, and describes the philosophies which continue to govern courses in Art and Design. This finely illustrated book provides a vivid review of the history of art teaching.
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Visionaries

interviews with fashion designers

Author: Susannah Frankel

Publisher: N.A

ISBN: 9781851773701

Category: Design

Page: 208

View: 7967

This collection brings together a unique series of in-depth profiles of leading fashion designers by fashion editor, Susannah Frankel. Including successful British designers: Alexander McQueen, Vivienne Westwood, Paul Smith and Hussein Chalayan; as well as big international names from Japan, Italy, France and the USA: Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garcons, Yohji Yamamoto, Issey Miyake, Tom Ford, Valentino, Yves Saint Laurent, Dolce & Gabbana, Donatella Versace, Sonia Rykiel and more. The interviews provide an insight into the designers' lives, comprehensive biographical detail and analysis of the way they think and work, as well as recording the cultural climate at the time. The book is illustrated with portraits and shoots by some of today's best fashion photographers - both more established and up-and-coming - among them Robert Wyatt, Juergen Teller, Donald Christie, Julie Sleaford, Mark Aleski, Justin Smith and Jane McLeish.
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In the Culture Society

Art, Fashion and Popular Music

Author: Angela McRobbie,Angela Mcrobbie

Publisher: Routledge

ISBN: 1136180389

Category: Social Science

Page: 176

View: 6237

How do different artistic and cultural practices develop in the contemporary consumer culture? Providing a new direction in cultural studies as well as a vigorous defence of the field, Angela McRobbie's new collection of essays considers the social consequences of cultural proliferation and the social basis of aesthetic innovation. In the wake of postmodernism, McRobbie offers a more grounded and even localised account of key cultural practices, from the new populism of young British artists, including Damien Hirst and Tracy Emin, to the underground London sounds of drum'n'bass, discussing music by artists such as Tricky, Talvin Singh and Goldie; from the new sexualities in girls' and women's magazines like More! and Sugar to the dynamics of fashion production and consumption. Throughout the essays the author returns to issues of livelihoods and earning a living in the cultural economy, while at the same time pressing the issue of cultural value.
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Designing Modern Britain

Author: Cheryl Buckley

Publisher: Reaktion Books

ISBN: 9781861893222

Category: Design

Page: 256

View: 9839

From the iconic Routemaster bus to the Dyson vacuum cleaner, the graphics of Penguin bookcovers or Vivienne Westwood garments, Britain has been at the forefront of design practice. In this informative and broad-ranging book Cheryl Buckley examines the culture as well as the products of design in Britain. In doing so, she explores questions of national identity, regional variations and notions of ‘Britishness’ in a Britain that has been transformed from leading an empire into a modern multicultural society. Beginning in the early twentieth century, Buckley demonstrates how notions of stability, longevity and tradition prevailed, evident in furniture, ceramics and textiles. She traces the introduction and acceptance of International Modernism in Britain; focuses on activities such as the organization of the Utility schemes, and assesses how shopping became a crucial element of ‘lifestyle’. She examines how a more fragmented, eclectic but potentially questioning design emerged in the 1980s and 1990s, with recycling and green attitudes, and discusses the confrontational approach of young fashion and graphic designers, as well as the ‘star’ culture of product designers and designer labels. Further, she considers how the heritage industry and popular nostalgia about the past has provided powerful images taken up by all types of designers, and how exhibitions in museums and galleries have played a part in reinventing Britain’s past. A cogent and timely look at Britain and its design culture, Designing Modern Britainis a multilayered examination of the creation, practice and meaning of design and Britain’s place in the global design world. Essential reading for designers, design historians and all those interested in Britain’s visual culture.
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Cultural Industries and the Production of Culture

Author: Dominic Power,Allen J. Scott

Publisher: Routledge

ISBN: 1134329741

Category: Business & Economics

Page: 280

View: 7238

Since the Second World War there has been considerable growth in the importance of non-manufacturing based forms of production to the performance of many Western economies. Many countries have seen increased contributions being made by industries such as the media, entertainment and artistic sectors. Gathering together a leading international, multi disciplinary team of researchers, this informative book presents cutting-edge perspectives on how these industries function, their place in the new economy and how they can be harnessed for urban and regional economic and social development.
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A Perfect Fit

The Garment Industry and American Jewry (1860-1960)

Author: Gabriel M. Goldstein,Elizabeth Greenberg

Publisher: N.A

ISBN: 9780896727359

Category: Design

Page: 237

View: 4086

"Investigates the U.S. fashion industry's nineteenth-century origins and the role of American Jews in creating, developing, and furthering the national garment industry from the Civil War forward"--Provided by publisher.
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Beyond the Bottom Line

The Producer in Film and Television Studies

Author: Andrew Spicer,Anthony McKenna,Christopher Meir

Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing USA

ISBN: 1441162887

Category: Performing Arts

Page: 304

View: 6954

This is the first collection of original critical essays devoted to exploring the misunderstood, neglected and frequently caricatured role played by the film producer. The editors' introduction provides a conceptual and methodological overview, arguing that the producer's complex and multifaceted role is crucial to a film's success or failure. The collection is divided into three sections where detailed individual essays explore a broad range of contrasting producers working in different historical, geographical, generic and industrial contexts. Rather than suggest there is a single type of producer, the collection analyses the rich variety of roles producers play, providing fascinating and informative insights into how the film industry actually works. This groundbreaking collection challenges several of the conventional orthodoxies of film studies, providing a new approach that will become required reading for scholars and students.
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Fashioning the City

Paris, Fashion and the Media

Author: Agnes Rocamora

Publisher: I.B.Tauris

ISBN: 0857731130

Category: Social Science

Page: 256

View: 5528

The fashion media have been central to the consecration of the city of Paris on the fashion map, as well as its celebration in the collective imagination. Indeed, with its conjunction of images and words, the fashion press constitutes a rich platform for an interrogation of how Paris has come to be constituted as a leading fashion city. Yet while much attention has been paid to the making of Paris in the work of various writers and artists, little is known about the city as defined and created by the fashion media. Based on an original analysis of fashion writing and images in contemporary French fashion magazines and newspapers, this illuminating book focuses on the discourse of the contemporary French fashion press on Paris, and so attends to this gap in studies of the French capital. Agnès Rocamora explores, for example, the figures of la Parisienne and la passante (the female passer-by), and the presence of the Eiffel Tower in fashion visuals. She gives attention to the continuum between the French journalistic discourse and that of cultural forms such as films, paintings and literature, thus revealing the persistence across texts and time of visions of Paris and shedding light on the production and reproduction of the Paris myth.
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Postmodern Fairy Tales

Gender and Narrative Strategies

Author: Cristina Bacchilega

Publisher: University of Pennsylvania Press

ISBN: 9780812200638

Category: Literary Criticism

Page: 208

View: 2164

Postmodern Fairy Tales seeks to understand the fairy tale not as children's literature but within the broader context of folklore and literary studies. It focuses on the narrative strategies through which women are portrayed in four classic stories: "Snow White," "Little Red Riding Hood," "Beauty and the Beast," and "Bluebeard." Bacchilega traces the oral sources of each tale, offers a provocative interpretation of contemporary versions by Angela Carter, Robert Coover, Donald Barthelme, Margaret Atwood, and Tanith Lee, and explores the ways in which the tales are transformed in film, television, and musicals.
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Swinging Britain

Fashion in the 1960s

Author: Mark Armstrong

Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing

ISBN: 0747814996

Category: History

Page: 96

View: 9282

Travel back in time to the era when Carnaby Street led the world, a golden age of youthful innovation and exhilarating pop culture, and a fashion scene that defined a generation. The 1960s was one of the most exciting fashion decades of the twentieth century, during which British pop and youth culture gave birth to styles that would set international trends. This book reveals how the sweeping social changes of the 1960s affected the British look, how designers and entrepreneurs such as Mary Quant and John Stephen made London the fashion city of the decade, and the influence of public figures such as the Beatles, the Rolling Stones, Cathy McGowan, Twiggy and Jean Shrimpton on the national identity of a country finally recovering from a prolonged period of austerity.
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Fashion Media

Past and Present

Author: Djurdja Bartlett,Shaun Cole,Agnès Rocamora

Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing

ISBN: 0857853090

Category: Design

Page: 256

View: 7579

The fashion media is in the midst of deep social and technological change. Including a broad range of case studies, from fashion plates to fashion films, and from fashion magazines to fashion blogs, this ground-breaking book provides an up-to-date examination of the role and significance of this field. Winner of the PCA/ACA Ray and Pat Browne Award for Best Edited Collection, Fashion Media includes chapters written by international scholars covering topics from historic magazine cultures and contemporary digital innovations to art and film, exploring themes such as gender, ethnicity, design, taste and authorship. Highlighting the complexity of processes that bind design, design, technology, society and identity together, Fashion Media will be of be essential reading for students of fashion studies, cultural studies, visual culture studies, design history, communications and art and design practice and theory.
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Full Marks for Trying

An unlikely journey from the Raj to the rag trade

Author: Brigid Keenan

Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing

ISBN: 1408852268

Category: Biography & Autobiography

Page: 208

View: 9545

Brigid Keenan was never destined to lead a normal life. From her early beginnings Â? a colourful childhood in India brought to an abrupt end by independence and partition, then a return to dreary post-war England and on to a finishing school in Paris with daughters of presidents and princes Â? ordinary didn't seem to be her fate. When, as a ten-year-old, she overheard her mother describe her as 'desperately plain', she decided then and there that she had to rely on something different: glamour, eccentricity, character, a career Â? anything, so as not to end up at the bottom of the pile. And in classic Brigid style, she somehow ended up with them all. Fate often gave Brigid a helping hand Â? in the late fifties, in her teens, she landed a job as an assistant at the Daily Express in London, and by the tender age of twenty-one she was a Fashion Editor at the Sunday Times. It was the dawn of the swinging sixties, and London was the place to be. Brigid worked with David Bailey and Jean Shrimpton, had her hair cut by Vidal Sassoon, drove around London in a mini-van, covered the Paris Collections and was labelled a 'Young Meteor' by the press. Despite always trying her hardest, Brigid's enthusiasm - and occasional naivete - could lead to embarrassing moments, such as when she turned up to report on the Vietnam war in a mini skirt Â? Candid, wickedly funny and surprisingly touching, Full Marks for Trying is a coming-of-age memoir that will delight, entertain, and make you cry with laughter.
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Something Wholesale

Author: Eric Newby

Publisher: HarperCollins UK

ISBN: 0007508220

Category: Travel

Page: 240

View: 9750

Veteran travel writer Eric Newby has a massive following and is cherished as the forefather of the modern comic travel book. However, less known are his adventures during the years he spent as an apprentice and commercial buyer in the improbable trade of women's fashion.
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Black Picket Fences, Second Edition

Privilege and Peril among the Black Middle Class

Author: Mary Pattillo

Publisher: University of Chicago Press

ISBN: 022602122X

Category: Social Science

Page: 336

View: 9391

First published in 1999, Mary Pattillo’s Black Picket Fences explores an American demographic group too often ignored by both scholars and the media: the black middle class. Nearly fifteen years later, this book remains a groundbreaking study of a group still underrepresented in the academic and public spheres. The result of living for three years in “Groveland,” a black middle-class neighborhood on Chicago’s South Side, Black Picket Fences explored both the advantages the black middle class has and the boundaries they still face. Despite arguments that race no longer matters, Pattillo showed a different reality, one where black and white middle classes remain separate and unequal. Stark, moving, and still timely, the book is updated for this edition with a new epilogue by the author that details how the neighborhood and its residents fared in the recession of 2008, as well as new interviews with many of the same neighborhood residents featured in the original. Also included is a new foreword by acclaimed University of Pennsylvania sociologist Annette Lareau.
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